The SiberianSnow Blog

If you've spent any time researching hypoallergenic cat breeds, you've probably come across Siberian cats. As a breeder who has worked with dozens of allergy-suffering families, I want to give you an honest, no-nonsense answer about what "hypoallergenic" really means when it comes to Siberians.

The Science Behind Siberian Cats and Allergies

First, let's be clear: no cat is 100% hypoallergenic. Cat allergies are primarily caused by a protein called Fel d 1, which is found in cat saliva, skin, and urine. When cats groom themselves, this protein gets on their fur and becomes airborne.

What makes Siberian cats special is that they naturally produce significantly lower levels of Fel d 1 compared to other breeds. Studies have shown that Siberians can produce up to 50% less of this allergen protein. Some individual cats produce even less.

Our Real-World Experience

In our seven years of breeding, we've placed kittens with over 200 families where at least one member had cat allergies. Here's what we've observed:

• About 75% of allergy sufferers report little to no reaction to our Siberians
• Another 15% have mild, manageable symptoms that improve over time
• Roughly 10% still react significantly and may not be suitable candidates

My own husband Mark was severely allergic to cats before we got our first Siberian. He couldn't be in the same room as a regular cat without his eyes swelling shut. Today, we have eight Siberians in our home, and he has zero symptoms.

What We Recommend

Before committing to a Siberian kitten, we always recommend that allergy sufferers spend time with adult Siberians. We welcome visitors to our cattery specifically for this purpose. Spending an hour or two with our cats gives you a realistic sense of how your body will react.

Remember that kittens produce less Fel d 1 than adults, so testing with adult cats is important. We want every adoption to be successful, and that means being honest about the realities of allergies.

Tips for Managing Allergies

Even with a low-allergen breed like Siberians, there are steps you can take to minimize reactions:

• Keep your bedroom cat-free to ensure allergen-free sleep
• Use HEPA air purifiers in main living areas
• Brush your cat regularly to remove loose fur and dander
• Wash your hands after petting, especially before touching your face
• Consider allergy shots if you have moderate sensitivity

Siberian cats have changed the lives of so many families who thought they could never have a feline companion. While they're not a guaranteed solution for everyone, they offer real hope for allergy sufferers who dream of sharing their home with a cat.

Congratulations on your new Siberian kitten! The first week in a new home is crucial for setting the foundation of a happy, well-adjusted cat. Here's everything you need to know to make this transition as smooth as possible for your new family member.

Before Your Kitten Arrives

Preparation is key. Before bringing your kitten home, make sure you have these essentials ready:

• A quiet room where your kitten can decompress (bathroom or spare bedroom works great)
• Litter box with the same litter we use (we'll provide a sample)
• Food and water bowls (stainless steel or ceramic preferred)
• A cozy bed or blanket
• Scratching post and a few toys
• Cat carrier for the trip home

Day One: Arrival

When you first arrive home, resist the urge to show your kitten the entire house immediately. Instead, take them directly to their designated "safe room." Open the carrier door and let them come out on their own terms. Some kittens bound out immediately; others need an hour to gather courage. Both responses are completely normal.

Stay in the room quietly, letting your kitten explore. Sit on the floor to appear less intimidating. Let them come to you when they're ready. This first day is about building trust, not forcing interactions.

Days Two Through Four: Building Confidence

Continue keeping your kitten in their safe room, but increase interaction time. Play with them using wand toys to build positive associations. Handle them gently, getting them used to being picked up and held. Introduce family members one at a time rather than overwhelming them with everyone at once.

Watch for signs of stress: hiding constantly, not eating, or excessive vocalization. A little hiding is normal, but if your kitten isn't eating after 24 hours, contact us immediately.

Days Five Through Seven: Expanding Territory

Once your kitten is confident in their safe room, eating well, and using the litter box consistently, you can start supervised exploration of other areas. Open the door and let them venture out at their own pace. Keep initial sessions short, maybe 15-30 minutes, before returning them to their room.

If you have other pets, this is when careful introductions can begin. Keep dogs leashed and allow cats to sniff under doors before any face-to-face meetings. Never force interactions.

Common First Week Concerns

Don't panic if your kitten experiences mild digestive upset in the first few days. The stress of travel and new environment can cause temporary soft stools. Stick to the food we provide and it should resolve within a few days. If diarrhea persists beyond 48 hours or your kitten seems lethargic, call your vet.

Some kittens cry at night during the first few days. This is normal – they're missing their littermates. A ticking clock wrapped in a blanket or a warm water bottle can provide comfort. Most kittens settle within 3-4 nights.

One of the most common questions we receive from new kitten families is about diet. What should they feed their Siberian? How much? How often? Let me share our feeding philosophy and the specific foods that keep our cats healthy and thriving.

Our Feeding Philosophy

We believe in a balanced approach that combines high-quality commercial foods with some fresh options. Cats are obligate carnivores, meaning they require animal protein to survive. We prioritize foods with real meat as the first ingredient and avoid those heavy in grains, fillers, or artificial preservatives.

What Our Cats Eat Daily

Our adult cats receive a combination of wet and dry food. For dry food, we use Royal Canin Siberian breed-specific formula. Yes, there's actually a food made specifically for Siberians! It's formulated to support their unique coat and cardiac health needs.

For wet food, we rotate between several high-quality brands including Weruva, Tiki Cat, and Fancy Feast's protein-focused lines. Wet food is important because cats naturally have a low thirst drive, and the moisture content helps support kidney health.

Kitten Feeding Schedule

Kittens have different nutritional needs than adults. They need more calories and nutrients to support their rapid growth. Here's our recommended schedule:

• 8-12 weeks: Free-feed dry kitten food, plus 3-4 wet food meals daily
• 3-6 months: Free-feed dry, 2-3 wet meals daily
• 6-12 months: Transition to scheduled dry feeding, 2 wet meals daily
• 1 year+: Adult feeding schedule with 1-2 wet meals and measured dry food

Foods to Avoid

Some human foods are toxic to cats. Never give your Siberian:

• Onions, garlic, or chives
• Chocolate or caffeine
• Grapes or raisins
• Raw eggs or raw meat (unless properly prepared)
• Alcohol or anything containing xylitol

The Importance of Fresh Water

Always provide fresh, clean water. Many cats prefer running water, so consider a cat fountain if your kitten doesn't seem to drink much from a bowl. Proper hydration is essential for urinary tract health, especially in males.

When you take your kitten home, we provide a starter bag of the food they're currently eating. If you decide to switch foods later, do so gradually over 7-10 days by mixing increasing amounts of the new food with decreasing amounts of the old. Sudden diet changes can cause digestive upset.

With their luxurious triple coat, you might expect Siberian cats to be high-maintenance in the grooming department. Good news: they're actually one of the easier long-haired breeds to care for! Their coat has a unique texture that resists matting. Here's everything you need to know about keeping your Siberian looking gorgeous.

Understanding the Siberian Coat

Siberians have a triple coat consisting of a dense undercoat, middle awn hairs, and longer guard hairs on top. This impressive coat evolved to protect them from harsh Siberian winters. The texture is somewhat water-resistant and doesn't mat as easily as other long-haired breeds like Persians.

Siberians go through two major shedding seasons: spring (when they blow their winter coat) and fall (when they grow it back). During these times, you'll notice significantly more fur around your home and will need to increase brushing frequency.

Brushing Routine

During normal times, brushing once or twice a week is sufficient for most Siberians. During shedding season, increase this to every other day or even daily. Use a stainless steel comb to work through the coat, starting from the skin and working outward. Follow up with a slicker brush to remove loose fur.

Pay special attention to areas prone to matting: behind the ears, under the arms, and around the "pants" (the fluffy fur on their back legs). If you encounter a mat, don't pull at it. Instead, use your fingers to gently work it apart, then comb through.

Bathing Your Siberian

Most Siberians don't need regular baths. Their coat is naturally somewhat self-cleaning, and excessive bathing can strip natural oils. However, occasional baths (every few months) can help reduce allergens and keep their coat in top condition.

When bathing, use a cat-specific shampoo and make sure to rinse thoroughly. Siberian coats are dense and can hold soap residue if not rinsed well. Many Siberians actually enjoy water – a trait unique to this breed – so bath time might be easier than you expect!

Nail Trimming

Trim your cat's nails every 2-3 weeks. Use proper cat nail clippers and only trim the clear tip, avoiding the pink quick (the blood vessel inside the nail). If you're nervous about this, ask your vet to demonstrate during your first visit.

Start handling your kitten's paws early and often, even when not trimming. This gets them comfortable with the sensation and makes nail trims much easier as they grow.

Ear and Eye Care

Check your Siberian's ears weekly for wax buildup or signs of infection (redness, odor, or discharge). Clean only the visible outer ear with a cotton ball dampened with ear cleaner – never insert anything into the ear canal.

Some Siberians, especially Neva Masquerades with their lighter coloring, may have occasional eye discharge. Gently wipe away any buildup with a soft, damp cloth. If discharge is excessive or colored, consult your vet.

I understand the sticker shock. When families first see that purebred Siberian kittens cost $2,000 or more, their eyes often widen. "Why so expensive when shelters have cats for $50?" It's a fair question, and I want to give you a completely transparent answer about where your money goes when you buy from a responsible breeder.

Health Testing: The Foundation of Responsible Breeding

Before any of our cats enter our breeding program, they undergo extensive health screening. This includes:

• Echocardiogram (heart ultrasound) by a board-certified cardiologist: $400-600 per cat
• Genetic testing panel for HCM, PKD, and other conditions: $200-300 per cat
• Annual wellness exams and vaccines: $300-400 per cat
• FeLV/FIV testing: $50-75 per cat

With eight breeding cats, we spend over $5,000 annually just on preventive health care and testing. This doesn't include any actual medical issues that arise.

The Cost of Quality Breeding Cats

Our breeding cats come from champion European and American bloodlines. A quality breeding queen or king costs between $3,000-5,000, sometimes more for exceptional pedigrees. We've invested over $30,000 in our breeding cats alone.

Kitten Care Expenses

From birth to going home, each kitten receives:

• Three rounds of vaccines: $150-200
• Deworming treatments: $50-75
• Microchipping: $50
• Vet examination and health certificate: $100
• Spay/neuter (for pet kittens): $200-400
• High-quality food for 12+ weeks: $150-200
• TICA registration: $20

That's approximately $700-1,000 in direct costs per kitten before any overhead.

The Hidden Costs

What most people don't see are the ongoing expenses that don't attach to individual kittens: cat trees and enrichment equipment, specialized litter and cleaning supplies, heating for the kitten room, emergency veterinary care, breeding contracts and legal fees, website and advertising, and countless hours of our time.

We also face losses. Not every mating results in pregnancy. Some pregnancies result in small litters or, heartbreakingly, kittens that don't survive. These realities are factored into pricing.

Why Cheap Kittens Are Expensive

Backyard breeders who sell Siberians for $800-1,200 are cutting corners somewhere. Usually, it's health testing. A kitten without tested parents might seem like a bargain until you're facing a $5,000 heart surgery or dealing with genetic issues that could have been prevented.

When you buy from a responsible breeder, you're not just buying a kitten. You're buying peace of mind, genetic health, proper socialization, and a lifetime of breeder support. That's what your investment really provides.

With the rising popularity of Siberian cats, unfortunately, comes an increase in irresponsible breeders and outright scams. As someone who's dedicated their life to this breed, it pains me to see families get hurt. Here's how to protect yourself and find a breeder who truly cares about their cats.

Green Flags: Signs of a Good Breeder

• Registry affiliation: Look for TICA, CFA, or other recognized registry numbers. Ask to verify registration.
• Health testing transparency: They should willingly show you HCM scan results and genetic testing for their breeding cats.
• Contract and health guarantee: Reputable breeders provide written contracts with health guarantees.
• Kitten visits welcomed: Good breeders want you to meet their cats in person (or via video if you're far away).
• Questions about YOU: A breeder who asks about your living situation, experience, and expectations cares about where their kittens go.
• Waiting list: Quality breeders often have waiting lists because they don't over-breed their cats.
• Lifetime support: They should be available for questions even years after you take your kitten home.

Red Flags: Warning Signs

• No registry papers: "Papers cost extra" or "parents aren't registered" means they're not tracking lineage properly.
• Always available kittens: Multiple litters constantly available suggests a kitten mill operation.
• No health testing: "My cats are healthy" without documentation isn't enough.
• Pressure to buy quickly: "This kitten won't last" tactics are manipulative.
• Won't allow visits: Legitimate reasons exist for limited visits, but a flat refusal is concerning.
• Unusually low prices: Significantly below-market prices usually mean corners are being cut.
• No contract or health guarantee: Legitimate breeders always provide written contracts and health guarantees.

Questions to Ask Every Breeder

Before committing, ask these questions:

1. Can I see your TICA/CFA registration number?
2. What health testing do you perform on breeding cats?
3. Can I see copies of health test results?
4. What vaccines and treatments will my kitten receive?
5. Do you provide a written health guarantee? What does it cover?
6. Can I visit or video chat to see the kittens?
7. How do you socialize your kittens?
8. Will you be available for questions after I take my kitten home?

A good breeder will answer all these questions enthusiastically. We love talking about our cats and our practices!